O.A.R.S. Founder George Wendt was supposed to accompany me on my first adventure down the Grand Canyon, but instead I took his memory and his spirit. As I spent a week deep in the Canyon in the flow of the mighty Colorado—gazing up at red rock walls sculpted by water and time, some layers dating back more than a billion years—time, in essence, stood still.

This magnificent landscape and the simple fact that I, and other fortunate humans, have access to an experience this life changing is what I’m fighting for.

I served as an Army officer in Baghdad right before, and at the start of, the massive surge of troops into the country. Before that, I worked clearing landmines in Angola, Abkhazia, and before that, I was in the Army for the first time in Bosnia. When I came home, the outdoors gave me my life back and it’s why I’ve dedicated my life to introducing people to the power and awe of wilderness.

I look up to those like George who came before me. This was his life’s mission: Deliver people into the heart of the wilderness, give them the experiences and connection to these wild rivers and landscapes, and turn them into advocates. It all started with the Grand Canyon, and we’re still here fighting for it today.

George used to say, “Conservation is a fight that is never over.” And now, looking into the next four years this could not be more true. We have fought and won battles to stop dams on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, we have and continue to fight damaging developments on the rim, but these threats aren’t going anywhere—and if the President-elect stands by his word, these threats will only escalate. Our Canyon is surrounded.

As Kevin Fedarko said after emerging from his sectional thru-hike of the Canyon, “What happens in the Grand Canyon matters. Decisions made here reverberate across public lands everywhere in America. Battles here that are won or lost have a significance far beyond this abyss that runs for 277 miles. We have set aside these parks, but they won’t stay the way they are in perpetuity. They have to be actively fought for and protected every day by each succeeding generation of Americans, and each generation has to decide if they are willing to do this. I know that is not something I can walk away from.”

We have a historic opportunity right now in the last weeks of Obama’s presidency to permanently protect the public lands surrounding Grand Canyon National Park as the Greater Grand Canyon Heritage National Monument.

This is what I fought for, our country, its people and its lands—and the fight isn’t over. It’s just beginning, again. And if we have any hope to bring our kids and grandkids down this river trip of a lifetime, we have to step up.

Here’s how you can get involved: 

1. Take action online. Encourage your friends and family to take action too!
2. Call President Obama and tell him that now is the time to protect the Greater Grand Canyon as a national monument. Call: (202) 456-1111.
3. Share this story on your social networks. Now more than ever, we need to rally the troops!

Photos: Monty Pollack (top); Steve Markle (bottom)

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Having a guide for your Grand Canyon hike can eliminate numerous logistical headaches. Still, guided or not, you are the one who is putting one foot in front of the other, so physical preparedness is the first step in planning for the challenge. Make it inspiring, not crippling.

There is a tenet of sports training called the Law of Specificity. It basically means that if you want to excel at running, you run, or if you want to have a good forehand, you hit lots of fore-hands. That’s easier said than done when it comes to hiking the Grand Canyon.

Elevations along the North Kaibab Trail range from 2,400 feet to 8,200 feet, so the air is thin here; thinner—even at the bottom of the Canyon—than at the high point of 35 states. Humidity in the Canyon usually ranges from 10 to 30 percent, while most of the country experiences humidity over 40 percent. The vertical distance from river to rim is 4,500 feet on the south side, 5,800 feet on the north. Where else can you get that kind of vertical, dryness, and thin air during one hike? You often can’t.

Still, we can do our best to emulate Canyon conditions. And if you’ve put in the miles, you’ll have a mental edge, which is the most important element of all. Follow these tips to get ready for your Grand Canyon hiking trip, and you’ll likely have energy left for inspiration.

1) Break in your footwear. Don’t wait to discover a blister from those new boots when you’re halfway into the Canyon.

2) Wear your Canyon clothes on some of your training walks. Like footwear, clothes can chafe or irritate, so don’t wait to find this out in Arizona.

3) Train with a pack. You’ll be hiking with one, so practice the Law of Specificity. Even if you’re walking around the neighborhood to train, occasionally do it with a pack on.

4) Find a hill, and make laps on it. You probably won’t get 4,500-vertical-feet, but you can get close. Four laps up a 500-foot slope equals a 4,000-foot elevation change. That can be a good training goal.

5) If hiking options are limited where you live, consider weight training. Focus on legs for hiking, and shoulders and upper back for pack carrying.

6) Hydrate thoroughly the day before your hike. Once in the Canyon it’s nearly impossible to catch-up, so be ready when you start.

The Grand Canyon can lose its luster, transforming from an awe-inspiring landscape to an awesomely oppressive void. Be prepared, however, and it’s all good, even grand.

This article appears in the O.A.R.S. 2017 Adventures Catalog. For more tips and travel inspiration, request a free copy.

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Filmmaker and Photographer Pete McBride is a Crusader for Rivers

There is perhaps no storyteller — modern or otherwise — who has become as intimate with the Colorado River Basin as Pete McBride.

The photographer, writer and filmmaker has irrigated his family’s hayfields in central Colorado with its tributary waters; paddled from its source to the sea (a thousand-plus-mile journey that ended with a walk over a dried-up delta); and shot breathtaking aerials of its curves from airplanes. He has documented some of its fiercest advocates; paddleboarded a special pulse flow through the delta; and, most recently and remarkably, become one of only a handful of humans to hike the length of the Grand Canyon — an incredibly arduous journey of roughly 750 miles — in the unforgiving terrain between river and rim.

Parts of his relationship with the river have been glorious, others brutal (like the time he nearly died of hyponatremia hiking in its extreme heat). But nearly all of it has been for a cause: To raise awareness of the vital role the Colorado plays in the West.

“It’s a real lifeline of the Western U.S., and it needs more reporting,” McBride said.

“It’s been listed in the top 10 most threatened rivers multiple times, it doesn’t reach the sea, and yet people still think their water comes from the tap.”

The Colorado could be called McBride’s pet project, but he’s built a career on championing freshwater everywhere, working on projects that range from a source-to-sea film on the Ganges to a film about river conservation in Fiji. There’s good reason the National Geographic Society named him “a freshwater hero.”

Rivers, McBride says, “are vehicles to tell the stories I think are important.” Stories like food production, mining, pollution, urbanization and wilderness. “Rivers are the arteries of the planet and they are far more valuable than oil or gas,” he said. “You can’t live without freshwater, you can live without gas.”

McBride’s relationship with rivers started at a young age. He grew up in old Snowmass on a cattle ranch his family still operates, irrigating fields with water from Capital Creek. Still, it would be several years before he recognized the magnitude of its significance. He went east for college, studying English and environmental studies at Dartmouth, where he also ski raced and played hockey.

After school, he got a writing internship at High Country News. One day, to accompany an essay about cattle branding, he took a series of photos at his family’s ranch. The magazine liked the pictures so much it ran a photo spread. That launched McBride into the world of photography, which, he said, “was a lot easier than writing.”

Following his internship, he coached ski racing for the University of Colorado before working for a nonprofit in California that helped nonviolent offenders work in urban gardens.  While he was there, he met a man who was working on a National Geographic story.

“I got to meet him and he said there might be another project,” McBride said. “I was totally enamored and starry-eyed and started helping out [at the magazine] anyway I could.”

It took two and a half years and a lot of work, but McBride eventually got published in National Geographic; his first big spread documented a 58-day flight in a WWI replica biplane from London to Cape Town.

From there, he was off and running as a world-traveling photographer, traveling from the Himalayas to Antarctica on assignment and completing a Knight Fellowship in photography at Stanford.

But it wasn’t until he took an ambitious National Geographic assignment in 2007 that McBride recognized the crucial nature of the Colorado River. The assignment: follow Jonathan Waterman on a 1,400-mile source-to-sea expedition to trace the river’s path.

They paddled from the Continental Divide, through roaring rapids and across glassy reservoirs. And after five months, they came to a place where the mighty Colorado dried up, giving way to salt-cracked delta.

“[The magnitude] hit me when the river died 90 miles short of the sea,” McBride said. “I realized that the story was much bigger. I realized, amazingly, that little to nothing was reported on it.”

That led him down a prolific path of Colorado River Basin-focused reporting that resulted in a book coauthored by Waterman as well as magazine articles and several short films, such as “I Am Red,” “Delta Dawn,” and “Martin’s Boat.”

Through these projects, McBride illuminates issues like the growing thirst of agriculture and urban centers, development proposals that surround the river and legendary river advocates like Martin Litton.

Most recently, McBride joined up with author Kevin Fedarko for the transect of the Grand Canyon. It was a brutal journey of several months, but one that highlighted threats like uranium mining, a gondola project and swarms of helicopters over the river.

True to form, McBride is now turning the journey into a documentary, so everyone can experience, and learn from, the adventure.

McBride, along with Fedarko, have been named 2017 National Geographic Adventurers of the Year. Click here before Dec. 16 to vote for them for People’s Choice. 

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The Grand Canyon is a source of inspiration for all river runners. It’s the ultimate bucket list trip, and as such, it has spawned more great books than any river in the world. From the early explorations of John Wesley Powell to the daring speed record of Kenton Grua, the literature of the Grand Canyon is a genre unto itself. Here we’ve collected the best of the best. If you’re planning a trip to the Canyon or looking for an armchair adventure, put one of these classic Grand Canyon books on your must-read list.

1) The Explorations of the Colorado River and its Canyons – John Wesley Powell

In 1869, a one-armed Major John Wesley Powell set out to map the Grand Canyon. No one had ever floated the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon before, and Powell’s journal of discovery is an absolute classic of adventure literature. He writes with military precision about the progress and difficulties of his expedition, but the canyon also instills a sense of timeless wonder that he presents with artistic flourishes. If you are looking for an adventure, and want to travel into the unknown, then this is the book for you. It is considered by many to be the bible of the Grand Canyon.

2) Down the Great Unknown – Edward Dolnick

Here is the epic story of the Powell Expedition in the hands of a talented historian. If the daily life of the Powell journals themselves prove too dry for you, then Down the Great Unknown is your choice. The story follows the Powell Expedition like a hovering drone camera where you can see all the action from multiple points of view. There’s the daunting rapids, the near starvation, and the mutiny of men all captured in heart-pounding prose that can make you laugh out loud. If you want to escape to the early days of the Grand Canyon, and feel the full force of the drama, beauty, and hardship of exploration, then read this one.

3) The Emerald Mile – Kevin Fedarko

The Emerald Mile is that rare book where you learn a lot during a page-turning adventure. The story follows veteran guide Kenton Grua who attempts the fastest time through the canyon during a record-setting flood in the spring of 1983. Along the way you gain interesting insight about Glen Canyon Dam, the rapids of the mighty Colorado, the conservation movement taking hold, and the colorful lives of characters who make the river their home. If you’re going to read one book about the Grand Canyon before your trip, this is it.

4) Sunk Without a Sound – Brad Dimock

In 1928, Glen and Bessie Hyde embarked on a honeymoon trip through the Grand Canyon. When they failed to return, an investigation into their whereabouts discovered their boat upright, fully loaded with supplies. Sunk Without a Sound looks into their mysterious disappearance. Part adventure story, part murder mystery, the twists and turns keep you on edge as you try to decipher fact from fiction. If you enjoyed Into the Wild, you’ll love this book. It has the same sense of idealistic youth embarking on a wild adventure through natural beauty with a tragic ending that’s shrouded in mystery.

5) There’s This River…Grand Canyon Boatman Stories – Christa Sadler

Take a seat alongside some of the best storytellers in the Grand Canyon—the guides. A colorful cast of characters tell the tales of their often hilarious, sometimes dangerous, and always entertaining adventures. No one knows the river better, and this book is your insider’s guide to the tight-knit community of river runners. It’s like sitting around the campfire, watching shadows dance upon the canyon wall, while you listen to some of the best stories from the river. This book is a must-read for those who enjoy the old-fashion art of storytelling.

6) The Hidden Canyon – John Blaustein

The Hidden Canyon is the best of both worlds and makes the perfect commemorative purchase for your trip. The incredible photographs of John Blaustein give you an intimate sense of the Grand Canyon from the river, a view that most people never see, while the images are paired with Edward Abbey’s iconic prose. Through his journal entries, we travel down the river together in wry, awestruck moments. It’s a memorable trip, and perhaps no book better captures the awe, beauty, and sheer wonder of a trip through the Grand Canyon.

7) Belknap’s Waterproof Grand Canyon River Guide – Buzz Belknap and Lori Belknap Evans

If you are more the literal type, and don’t need a story to whisk you away beyond the story of the Canyon itself, then Belknap’s Grand Canyon River Guide is the book for you. It’s also the best book to bring while on your Grand Canyon adventure. There are sections to help you understand the geology, wildlife, rapids, and cultural history. Make notes in it as you go about the camps you stay at, favorite side hikes, or other noteworthy events and it’ll become an annotated guide to your trip. It’s a must-have that will enhance your journey through the canyon.

Photos courtesy of: Jeffe Aronson, Jerry Eisner, John Blaustein

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The river community is mourning the loss of Katie Lee, the spitfire poet, folk-singer, rabble rouser, river runner and iconic desert activist best known for her fierce and decades-long battle against the Glen Canyon Dam. Lee passed away at her home in Jerome, Ariz., on Nov. 1. She was 98.

Hers was a long and colorful life filled with desert exploration, songs, river trips, writing and activism. Petite, luminous and possessing of a mellifluous voice, she swore like a sailor, was known to bike naked through Jerome and was never one to repress an opinion, no matter how incendiary. She was outrageous, mischievous, feisty, graceful, fearless and determined.

But nothing defined Lee more than her beef with Glen Canyon Dam, which fueled her work and defined her life for a staggering six decades. She was spitting mad about it until the end, and her unrelenting campaign made her an icon of modern Western activism.

“I haven’t quit, I’m still moaning and groaning about it,” she told me in a 2013 interview for Patagonia. “What else am I going to do? I know who I am, I know what I’m supposed to do and I do it. And until I drop, that’s what I’ll do.”

Lee was born in 1919 in Arizona. She grew up in Tucson, spending most of her time exploring the desert. Following college, she went to Hollywood to pursue stage and screen acting, getting bit parts and singing gigs.

Her trajectory changed on a trip home to Arizona, when she watched a film by her friend Tad Nichols about running the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. It looked like an awful lot of fun. So when he called later to offer her a gig as a troubadour for a raft trip through Glen and San Juan Canyons, she jumped at the chance. It was 1953.

“That’s how I got to the river. But then the river became part of me, and still is,” she told Arizona Public Media in 2015.

Thus began Lee’s love affair with desert rivers. Over the next several years, she rafted and floated sections of the Colorado, Green and San Juan dozens of times, exploring side-canyons, running the rapids, singing around campfires, sleeping under the stars and becoming an outsized character of Colorado River lore. She spent whole months floating the Grand Canyon and San Juan Rivers, and was reportedly just the third woman to run all of the Grand Canyon’s rapids.

Of all the river canyons, it was Glen that seized her by the heart and didn’t let go. Lee described it as a place of indescribable beauty filled with canyon wrens and soaring Wingate walls, ancient ruins, a maze of sinuous side canyons and little arches everywhere. Glen Canyon was magic, she said. It whispered to her.

When news arrived that a dam was coming to Glen Canyon, Lee ignored it at first. She considered it too implausible, too dunderheaded to happen. But happen it did. Despite later forceful protests of Lee and others, construction commenced in 1956. The dam was completed in 1963, burying Lee’s beloved Glen Canyon under Lake Powell, which she forever dubbed “Rez Foul.”

Lee was both broken-hearted and enraged. Livid, she poured her anger into protest songs, activism and story-telling, emerging as one of the most colorful and sharp-tongued advocates for preservation of wild places in the Southwest. Over the course of her career, Lee published five books, recorded 14 albums, made a television documentary, sat on the advisory board of the Glen Canyon Institute and spoke across the West. Her uncensored opinions made her a sought-after resource, and she was featured in scores of articles along with documentaries like “DamNation,” “Wrenched” and “Troubled Water.”

Lee’s outspoken nature delighted audiences throughout her life. She led crowds in sing-a-longs of inflammatory protest songs about the “Wreck-The-Nation” Bureau, openly insulted government officials and was never shy about her fantasy of seeing Glen Canyon Dam blown to smithereens.

But under her fiery facade was a sensitive heart. She openly wept at film screenings and public gathering, and would get so riled up she’d tremble. She was incredibly warm and generous to her loved ones, said filmmaker and longtime friend Beth Gage.

“She could be completely, embarrassingly outrageous, but she could also be warm and sweet and loving,” said Gage, who made a short film called “Kick-Ass Katie Lee” in 2016. Gage remembers a woman of intense determination and little modesty who lived out her passions and never backed down on her beliefs.

“She was out there, she was outrageous. And that was what was so great about her,” Gage said. “She just was a real true original.”

My heart knows what the river knows
I gotta go where the river goes
Restless river wild and free
The lonely ones are you and me

~Katie Lee, Song of the Boatman

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A second-year river guide shares how she calmed her nerves and rediscovered her strong, capable self on a Grand Canyon trip.

Deep inside a stark and extreme landscape, I am left sorting out what may be causing my sweaty palms and anxious stomach. What about this experience is triggering fear? What is perceived fear and what is real?

For years I worked as a trip leader for Outward Bound in which we often pushed our students outside of their comfort zones and taught them skills on how to manage these feelings. Here I am doing the same for myself on a boat in the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

I’m a second-year guide running a baggage boat for a Grand Canyon Dories trip. And whether this fear is real or perceived, it’s affecting my attitude and my lines. I am a young boater, but I know I can do this. However, my runs have been sloppy; my heart is racing, my strokes feel weak, and I’ve been tossed aside in even the smaller rapids.

I am surprised by how swirly the water is down here. My boat is constantly being tossed from one side of the river to the other in seconds without me even taking a stroke. The current grabs a hold of me and off I go. My body aches; I am fighting everything; I am both physically worked, and emotionally drained. I am constantly embodying this fear of not being good enough or capable enough for this new place and this new community.

There needs to be a change.

After days alone on my boat wondering what I am doing wrong, I start seeking support from my new community. Duffy Dale, a long time dory builder and a fellow guide reassures me and offers some advice. He suggests I take each experience as a learning moment. He says it takes time in a place to be able to read the water and run your lines well.

But the biggest piece of advice he gives me is to breathe.

I laugh in his face.

“No, but really,” he says. “As you’re setting up, take deep breaths; people forget to breathe all the time. If you remember to breathe your muscles will be stronger, your mind will be clearer.”

“Plus, when you swim you’ll have more air in your lungs,” he adds with a smirk.

Another friend shares something her dad always tells her; There are two things you have control over in life: one is your attitude and another is your effort.

Considering this advice, I write out a plan of action. My new goals are this; focus on reading water, set up for good entrances, be stoked to learn, give myself permission to fail and remember to breathe.

Focusing on this I begin to have fun again. My nerves calm and my excitement for each rapid starts to build. Riding the larger features rather than trying to skirt the intimidating waves, my boat now goes up and down with power and exhilarating force. I use my oars to angle the boat through rapids playing with the water rather than fighting it, and ultimately remembering what makes boating so fun. My fears begin to slide away, but I am still learning. At times I end up in the exact holes that Duffy tells me not to. “Oh, this hole? Yup, found it!” I say, laughing, reminding myself this is one of those learning moments.

By the time Crystal comes, one of the most consequential rapids in the canyon, I am feeling good. I take deep breathes, intentional strokes, and line up just where I want to be. I hit what feels like the perfect line. Once I make it through the rapid, I toss my oars to the side, stand up and dance, singing about my new found feeling of success. With the support of my community and some intentional focus I have found my confidence again and it has changed my entire Grand Canyon experience.

To you river guides out there; you bikers, you writers, you pow surfers, and you artists: Know that if you have been pushed outside of your comfort zone and your confidence is down, it’s not gone forever.  You may just need to reassess where your efforts and attitude are. And always remember to breathe!

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Three years ago I got a call from a friend who had a last-minute spot open up on a 28-day Grand Canyon trip she was organizing—a.k.a. the trip of a lifetime. With just six weeks to get ready, I went into full preparation mode. From my most trusted pieces of gear to the advice that will keep you on any guide’s good side, here are a few insider tips for how to get the ‘stealth newbie’ award on any river trip.

1) Learn how to read river maps and follow along as you float downstream. Tom Martin’s guide books are some of the best. They’re durable, waterproof, and chock full of natural history and other fun facts.

2) You’ll be in the sun all day. Take cover in a lightweight, quick-drying shirt like Patagonia’s Sunshade Hoody which will keep you from burning, and function as your personal air conditioner when removed, dunked in the river, and put back on. Also, make sure you have a good sun hat with a chin strap so it will provide shade, but not blow away when you’re barreling through the rapids.

3) While we’re talking about sun, here’s the best sunscreen for a river trip.

4) Make time to take care of your injuries. On a river trip, even the tiniest cuts and scrapes can turn into menacing infections. My favorite all-purpose healing sidekick is this salve.

5) Be a good guest. Each guide is the captain of his/her own raft, and for the duration of the rafting season these boats are their homes. Take notice of their preferences and respect them like a good guest would. Here’s how you can really wow your river guide:

• Dunk your feet in the water before hopping in the boat to keep sand and dirt in the raft to a minimum.
• Pack a few locking carabiners to keep your personal items (water bottles, hats, sandals, etc.) clipped and tidy in the boat.
• Surprise your guide and fellow passengers with snacks you’ve brought to share (a handful of Snickers Minis goes a long way).

6) Open up. One of the best parts of a river trip is the community that gets formed while you’re out there. Sing songs, tell jokes, share stories, listen deeply, and get to know your fellow travelers. If you’re a musician, bring your instrument. Bird-nerd, binoculars. Fisherman, fly rod. Artist, watercolors. Pack a hobby to share with your trip comrades.

7) If you really want to go above and beyond, take a swiftwater rescue course. While it’s certainly not necessary before going on a guided rafting trip, if you enjoy recreating on rivers in any capacity, knowing some rescue basics never hurts. Swiftwater safety courses can teach you how to swim out of rapids, read the river, self-rescue, as well as some essential wilderness first-aid skills.

Take this advice to heart and you’ll fit right in on any river trip. In fact, nobody will even suspect you’re a first-timer.

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With 225 river miles and 15 magical nights spent under the stars, a rafting trip through the Grand Canyon is nothing short of an expedition—an expedition that holds the promise of unforgettable adventure and life-long memories. But what happens on a more personal level? Do copper sunsets and roaring rapids really have the power to transform someone? Talk to anyone who has ventured into the depths of the canyon and they will tell you, “Absolutely.”

This past September I was lucky enough to witness this transformation first hand, not only for myself, but also for some of the other guests who braved the canyon.

The portraits below, taken on the first day and last day, show what 16 days in the wilderness will do to a person. While their physical transformations are apparent—bronzed cheeks, tousled hair and a stress-free sparkle in their eyes—it’s their personal revelations that are most inspiring.

Meet Connie (60), Harris (27), Sydney (28) and Jovan (62).

Every great adventure starts with the moment you say, “Yes.”  When asked why this particular trip was chosen, our guests had a handful of unique responses.

For Harris and his dad, Jovan, they were initially inspired by the book The Emerald Mile. Along with the literary inspiration, Harris felt that this could be a vitally important chance to bond as father and son.

“My parents have invested a lot in me, so I felt like I owed it to my dad to give him an experience that I know he’s been dreaming of,” Harris explained.

For Sydney, she said she didn’t have a choice—this trip chose her. Sydney was a last-minute addition to the trip after her uncle, Sid (her namesake), passed away unexpectedly. There was no hesitation in her decision when her aunt Connie called and asked her to take Sid’s place.

“There’s nothing that would have stopped me from saying yes,” said Sydney.

After the passing of her husband, Connie never questioned if she would cancel the trip. Instead, she chose to use the river as a way to celebrate and honor Sid, with her son and niece by her side.

Even the most adventurous of travelers enter into endeavors like this with at least some trepidation.

Often, these fears arise from concern for safety. On day one, Jovan admitted to having some nerves about the larger rapids, especially knowing that his beloved son would be exposed to the same dangers.

Other times, these fears are more physical or social in nature. Connie, for example, was most anxious that her recently fixed knee might become re-injured. She was an avid hiker who had life-long dreams of exploring every nook and cranny in the canyon. For Sydney, her fear was about group dynamics. This is a fair concern considering putting 16 strangers in a flotilla together is a bit of a gamble. We all know how the show Survivor ends.

So, what came of these fears? They were faced and they were conquered.

Jovan quickly found that his nerves about safety had evolved into excitement and he even found himself, “feeling pumped for the larger rapids like Crystal.”

Connie’s fear of re-injury morphed into motivation – she refused to miss a hike and her knee graciously soldiered on through each and every step.

With Sydney, she admitted that by the end of night one her fears of the group not getting along had completely dissipated. Harris agreed by adding that he was pleasantly surprised by how quickly everyone began to feel like family.

With fear out of the way, all that is left is room to fully give yourself to the experience. This is when you are likely to see the most impactful transformations.

Before the trip was fully underway, I spoke with Connie about her goals and if there was anything she was hoping to learn on her journey through the Grand Canyon.

“I’m leaving myself open,” she said as she explained to me that she wanted to be mentally available for whatever the river had in store for her.

Over the next 16 days, the river worked its magic. The experiences and challenges of 225 rugged river miles gave Connie something she had been needing – independence. She told me on our last morning that since her husband’s death she had struggled with feeling like she had lost a part of herself, like she was “half a person.” This trip made her feel whole again, which she attributes to the fact that, “this type of environment strengthens you.”

For many transformative experiences in people’s lives there tends to be an aha-moment, often at the pinnacle of adventure or excitement. The canyon is different though. It’s in the quiet moments when simplicity reigns that most people feel moved.

For Harris, the brief, although seemingly eternal, time before entering a rapid is when he felt the most inspired—”The silence before the storm,” as he put it. This feeling resonated with him deeply as he began to understand the beauty in appreciating not only the big exciting occasions in life, but also relishing in the journey leading up to those events.

Similarly, his father Jovan told me that many of his most memorable sparks of inspiration came from seeing expansive views of parts of the canyon we had yet to travel. Most notably, the river view from the Nankoweap Granaries. He described these sights as “ribbons of water that are symbolic of beginning and end.” He took this symbolism as a lesson in accepting life in all of its stages.

Sydney’s inspiration came in the form of humility. Surrounded by grandiose scenery, she said it was hard not to feel humbled when she realized how small she was in comparison to everything else around her. In this setting she was able to really slow down and appreciate each moment for what it was—a lesson she hopes will stick with her throughout her life.

A river trip of this magnitude is one of nature’s most special gifts. To this day the river still brings me to my knees, and I watch time and time again as it changes the lives of those around me, just like it did for Connie, Sydney, Harris and Jovan. So, give it chance—say “yes” to adventure. You never know what the river might have in store for you.

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We asked several of OARS’ veteran operations managers to share their river stories and why these wild places are such an important part of their lives

George Wendt knew what it meant to be passionate about rivers. And as he grew his fledgling rafting company into one of the most trusted outfitters in America, he found others along the way that could carry that same passion into all of the regions the company operates, even after he was gone. Today, the dedicated people  behind OARS, are the strength of the organization.

Together, the six regional managers below have spent nearly 90 years with the company and decades more on rivers. A couple of them have even been around since the start of the rafting industry. No doubt their stories could fill a book. Here, a few of them share what led them to rivers, and ultimately, why rivers matter

Monte Tillinghast, OARS/Grand Canyon Dories Manager

Rivers are life-changing…

I’m told my first river trip was in 1965. I would have been three years old. [My parents] owned two river companies as I was growing up, but they retired out of it before I was old enough to really even have an interest.

1969 was the first time I ran the Grand Canyon, and I was looking at that through the eyes of a seven year old.  Being brought up in it, you don’t have the appreciation for it that you do later in life when you look back. During those days, I thought I was just like anybody else growing up. It’s not until you reach some point in your life, as you get older, that you realize, “Wow. That was really neat.”

After a motorcycle accident [temporarily] paralyzed me from the neck down, that changed my life. It’s pretty much around that moment that I realized that I had a love for river running and I missed it. And so, that was the direction I went from there.

My own physical therapy kind of brought me full circle. It brought me back to the Grand Canyon. That place has always been special to me. It has a way of instilling an inner-peace. It has a way of grounding me. It has a way of allowing me to look at things with clarity.

To me, being on the river has always been a spiritual journey.

Curt Chang, OARS Idaho Regional Manager

Rivers are good for the soul…

2018 will be my 50th year boating. I started guiding in 1968 on the Stanislaus River in California. My father made a trip down the Grand Canyon with Martin Litton in 1967 and came back so impressed with the adventure that he told me not to pass up the chance to go. My first trip in the canyon was in 1968. It was all by the seat of our pants then. Martin was busy with many other projects, and river outfitting in general was in its infancy. So basically, I was in the right place at the right time and had the good fortune to be a part of something truly special.

Time spent on a river is regenerative in such a way that many of us [in the river community] consider it life-changing.  The longer you spend going with the flow, and the more you open yourself up to the experience, the bigger the benefit to your soul.

Here’s one from John Muir: “Take a course in good water and air; and in the eternal youth of Nature you may renew your own.”

How we connect with water and rivers, along with just being outdoors and in the wilderness, and having the opportunity to take in each day in a more natural way—I think it’s kind of an emotional and philosophical thing. Getting up when the sun comes up and dealing with the basics of a river trip is amazingly rejuvenating. The longer you’re out there the more likely you are to make that inner connection. Those that do, benefit greatly.

Seth Davis, OARS Moab Regional Manager

Rivers are healing…

On a Yampa trip in 2012, fresh off the amputation of my lower left leg, I was able to take an actual step from the bank of the river onto the tube of my raft without having to sit down and swing my legs over. This simple act was actually profoundly impactful as it represented the beginning of getting back to what I used to be able to do.

This step, something a boater does countless times on a trip, was one of many essential abilities that I felt I needed to perform to be able to resume guiding as an amputee. Guiding was something I wanted to do more than anything. At 32 years old, I had finally found something I was passionate about and could also make a living doing.

This Yampa trip was the first commercial trip I did with my prosthetic and I was eager and motivated to see if I could still do it, still cut it as a guide. So when I executed that first true step, from a sandy shore, to the smooth and slick surface of a raft tube, I began to chip away at getting back the life and lifestyle that had abruptly been shaken up. Those early trips, done with a temporary prosthetic that I can’t imagine having to use now, were frustrating, challenging and left me in tears many times. But they were also the best thing I could have done for myself because the river and the canyons give us a perspective on time and place that puts us in our place.

Kate Wollney, OARS Oregon Regional Manager

Rivers are home…

When I was 14 years old, living in a Chicago suburb, my mom selected a Rogue River rafting trip as a family vacation.  We were not a family who camped. As she now puts it, she was “looking for something that combined her kids’ love of roller coasters with her love of nature.”  Once we got on the Rogue, I was amazed by how awesome it was to be rafting, camping, exploring waterfalls and jumping off rocks.

On that trip, we visited Tate Creek Falls, which has a natural waterslide. When I plunged into the pool after my first slide, I felt with certainty that this place was the most magical place on Earth.

Although I couldn’t name it at the time, that river trip was the first time I truly felt at home.  I had found my sense of place. This experience eventually lead to what has become 25 years (and counting) working on the Rogue River and sharing this place I love with others.

Participating in a multi-day trip on a wild river is magical because the circumstances create balance and harmony without effort.  There is a big trend toward “mindfulness” and “being in the present” right now in American culture.  River trips have always created an opportunity for people to experience this enlightened state.

On a river trip, you must focus on the now.  Rapids naturally demand our attention in the moment. Ironically, an accidental swim through a rapid often turns into a trip highlight for many people.  In that moment, for the swimmers, nothing else matters.  It is just them and the water. But even walking around on shore forces people to focus on what they are doing in the moment because the uneven footing demands attention.  Without even trying, people focus on the now because the beauty all around captures their awe.

We all need wild rivers in our lives to remind us how to see the beauty right where we are with the people who are right there with us.

Chris Moore, OARS California Regional Manager

Rivers shape who you are…

As a child, my family scheduled a yearly camping trip on the Lower Tuolumne River. I looked forward to these trips for many reasons, but skipping rocks and fishing were highlights. Spending time with family in the same spot year after year took a lot of the “guesswork” out of that annual trip and we were able to focus more on each other.

In my later years, after spending time on many other rivers, I found my way back to the Tuolumne. Sixty-plus miles upstream of my childhood memories, with completely different expectations, the Tuolumne River has provided some of the most challenging days of my adult life, given me some of the best nights of rest, and left me with experiences impossible to replicate. Those experiences have made me the person I am.

Bruce Lavoie, OARS Dinosaur Regional Manager

Rivers are magic…

A long trip in a van exploring the West brought me to western rivers. I started in Jackson Hole guiding one-day trips, but I’d say what really caught my attention was my first multi-day rafting trip, a Yampa trip with OARS. I was hooked after that trip.

I want to say I was 25. I was rowing a baggage boat as a trainee. Coming from backpacking where you’re carrying all of your supplies on your back—that was my experience previous to that—and then going on a Yampa trip and exploring for five days out in the backcountry, eating steaks and shrimp cocktail, that was the turning point. You could experience this wild place and do it in style and luxury.

Then there was the excitement of the whitewater. The Yampa is scenic and beautiful, but it’s not full-on, “Class-scare-your-pants-off.” There’s some nice flat water, but then you get to Warm Springs. It was exhilarating to run a big-volume, challenging rapid like Warm Springs for my first time rowing on an expedition-style raft trip. That heart-pumping whitewater, the luxury of raft-camping and being in a wild and pristine environment, all of those things culminated in that one trip. The other thing I took away from that experience was the community that you build and the relationships you make. It’s all these amazing parts that make a river trip.

Being out on the river is such a dynamic experience that every time you go out, it’s uncertain what exactly is going to happen until the day is over. The excitement of not knowing is an integral part of the experience: on a whitewater river, you might make it through clean or you might flip! But in the end, it’s all the little things that come together to make a wilderness river a truly magical place.

What’s your river story? In 2018, as we honor the 50th Anniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, we’ve joined forces with a number of outdoor industry brands and conservation organizations to collect 5,000 stories from across the country to help tell a bigger story—why rivers matter. Learn more and share your story at: 5000miles.org.

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Retracing John Wesley Powell’s First Descent of the Colorado River and its Canyons Nearly 150 Years Later

John Wesley Powell’s expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers in 1869 can easily be anointed the greatest first descent of all time. Other river journeys throughout history have covered greater distances, opened better trade routes, and run bigger whitewater. Yet even 149 years later, no other river descent has probed as many virtually unknown canyons as Powell’s mission, culminating with the Grand Canyon—the one that all river trips are measured by, even today.

No river journey before or since has entered such an unknown and dramatic landscape, adding important information to the geographic body of knowledge. While most of North America had been explored by 1869—the Rocky Mountains, Pacific Northwest, and far North—the heart of the Colorado Plateau had not. There were no soaring trees or plush beaver pelts to be exploited here, but there was an intimidating and surreal landscape of rocky canyons and isolated tablelands, with limited resources and few native inhabitants. This was the last unexplored region of the United States.

So when Powell, a one-armed Civil War hero, and his nine men left Green River, Wyoming on May 24, 1869, their primary goal was to map an unknown land, using the river as a means of transport. But traversing this obscure region by boat was only practical if they could keep their supplies intact. They carried flour, salt, coffee, beans, bacon—enough rations to last 10 months—and plenty of ammunition. Also weighing their heavy boats were axes, hammers, saws, and augers, everything needed to build a winter cabin if necessary. In the name of science they hauled barometers, chronometers, and sextants. This was an expedition ready for terra incognita, much like the renowned polar journeys of the era. Except instead of penetrating vast regions of ice, this trip traveled through some of our finest future national parks.

A week into their three-month journey, the crew encounters their first rapids in Flaming Gorge. Things went smoothly enough here, and the men gained some confidence in running mild whitewater. By the 9th of June, that confidence took a hit when one boat, steered by brothers Oramel and Seneca Howland, missed a pull-in above a rapid in Lodore Canyon. The “No Name,” one of just four boats, was broken to pieces. Its life-jacket-less survivors luckily emerged on an island. A week later a fire got loose in camp, and most of the trip kitchen was lost in the melee.

The expedition regained some composure through the canyons of today’s Dinosaur National Monument, and the group emerged into a wide valley below the Uinta Mountains, where there were known crossings. Here Major Powell took a week off from river travel to visit the Uinta Indian Reservation, and make contact with military personnel stationed there. The deepest, most clandestine labyrinth of canyons was just ahead. Frank Goodman, one of the survivors from the No Name wipeout, decided to stay at the agency and make his way back to civilization. They were now nine men in three boats.

On July 6th they entered Desolation Canyon, and by the 13th they were passing today’s Green River, Utah, forging into the future Canyonlands National Park, where they passed the confluence with the Grand River (it was only called the Colorado below the confluence then), and entered Cataract Canyon. Powell and his team coined the descriptive name, “Cataract,” just as they did for many geographic features along the way. By the end of July they were in a place they would call Glen Canyon, for its many dripping springs. This was perhaps Powell’s favorite haunt of the entire trip. Today, much of the canyon is now lost beneath reservoir waters ironically titled, Lake Powell.

When the river runners pushed off from the mouth of the Paria River and the future Lees Ferry, they had been on the water for more than 70 days. “With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning,” Powell understates.

A few days later Marble Canyon is coined when he observes, “The limestone of this canyon is often polished, and makes a beautiful marble.” Below this canyon, a new rock type is encountered. Powell writes, “The river enters the gneiss! We can see but a little way into the granite gorge, but it looks threatening.”

Sure enough, they were soon latched onto a cliff above Sockdolager Rapid, looking for a way around. Until this point, most of the Class III or IV rapids on the trip had been portaged or lined, but here that was not an option; “…we must run the rapid or abandon the river…” They ran. It worked. The crew was now forced to row through Class IV whitewater in the greatest gorge on earth—a legendary feat for 1869.

The crew stopped at Bright Angel Creek and made new oars from cottonwood trees. They ran and lined more rapids, always wary of un-portageable river-wide falls. They got drenched by an active monsoon season. Their bacon spoiled and rations ran low. Through it all, Powell managed to take epic side hikes at every opportunity, scouting what gorges might lay ahead and no doubt reveling in his presence within the dreamscape of Grand Canyon. Can you imagine?

Unrelenting blind horizons and a threatening food-scarcity produced a group anxiety that plagued the last part of the trip, and when they arrived at another must-run rapid, the Howland brothers balked. Along with William Dunn, the two hiked out at a place now called Separation Canyon. They were never seen again.

Just two days later, the remaining men emerged from the Grand Wash Cliffs. Most of them continued downstream to known outposts to live the remainder of their frontier lives, and a place in history. Powell and his brother reached nearby Mormon settlements, and then traveled on to Salt Lake City.

Later, Powell published The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons, a classic in the annals of adventure literature. He helped create the United States Geological Survey, and became its second director. He pushed for a topographic map system for the country and even helped shape land use policy in the arid West.

Powell died in 1902 at the age of 68.  And while his legacy is much broader than exploration and river running, one thing cannot be denied: John Wesley Powell led one of the most incredible adventures of all time.

All expedition photos are from the 1871 John Wesley Powell Expedition – no photos were taken on the original journey in 1869.

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I had been working as a front desk attendant when I got the news. I would be working for a rafting company as a guide. I had worked as a backpacking guide in the past so I knew some aspects of the job well enough, but I had never been on a river trip, much less worked a trip. Best of all, I would be working in the Grand Canyon.

Living in Flagstaff at the time, I had been to the edge and looked on in bewilderment and wonder as I walked up to the railing at Mather Point. At the time I was just a tourist, just like the thousands of others. Then, I had no idea how much impact the Grand Canyon would have on who I was and how it would change the course of my life.

This trip was beyond words. It is indescribable, the Canyon. Those of you who have been there, on the river, in its depths… you know. My first trip was from Diamond Creek to Pearce Ferry. For most full canyon trips, Diamond Creek is just a takeout. For me it was the launching off point for my soul. As we drove down one of the worst dirt roads I had ever been on my eyes drank in everything. Every single drop. Every burning orange flower of the Ocotillo, every flood-worn rock, every speck of dust. I was hooked.

Then we were there. At the water’s edge. I looked down Diamond Creek Rapid and took a breath. I had never rowed a boat in my life, but come hell or high water I was going to row this 16-foot gear boat down the whole stretch. And that is just what I did. Thankfully, I wasn’t without help. George Bain sat in the bow and gave me direction after direction. Pull left… push… both back… T-up. It wasn’t until mile 232, Killer Fang Falls, that I nearly completely blew it, clipping the hole, sideways, on river left and nearly throwing poor George out of the boat.

As the trip progressed, I slept on the beach, ate the meals, and felt my heart changing. I realized that I had to spend as much time as possible here, at the bottom, underneath the Milky Way closed in by the canyon walls. I realized that this place held magic that I had never felt before. I now knew what it meant to be “on the river.”

When we passed the Grand Wash Cliffs and it sank in that we had just exited the Grand Canyon, I knew my life as I had known it was over. I had just closed the book of the past and had started writing the first words of the intro of a new, grand story.

In celebration of the 50th Anniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act in 2018 OARS is working with American Rivers, REI, YETI and NRS to collect 5,000 river stories from people across the country. We all have our river stories – what’s yours? Share your story at 5000miles.org. #WeAreRivers #5000MilesofWild

Photos: Caleb Norton

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By day five of my first rafting trip down the Grand Canyon, time started to slow and protract in a funny way. My senses seemed to sharpen, becoming almost granular. I shed the anxiety I had experienced going into the trip, and instead pondered the immeasurable journey that the sand had taken to reach the beach at my feet, noticed every bend of light as it spilled over the rim each morning and watched with great interest as the smear of stars grew brighter against the night sky.

Each splash of cold river water, ray of hot sun on my skin, scuttle of lizard, conversation with a trip-mate and song of canyon wren seemed so defined. Everything too important to overlook.

I went on to have the trip of a lifetime, coming home, like so many do, with the post river-trip glow, the bliss hangover and the strong desire to go right back.

Turns out, there’s good reason behind the bliss. Duh, you may rightfully respond. River trips are a blast. A time to unplug and unwind, to test your mettle in the rapids, explore side hikes, spend quality time away from devices and gaze into the campfire at the end of the day before sleeping under the stars. Pretty self-explanatory why people love them.

But there’s more to river trips than just fun. There’s also a host of physiological benefits and changes in brain behavior that come with time spent in nature, and specifically when that time lasts several days. We’ve intuitively known this for a long time, but in recent years, researchers have assembled a growing body of evidence on the issue, building a case for why multi-day wilderness trips can be an important part of the toolbox for leading long and healthy lives and giving you all the more reason to make that river trip a mandate.

As the author of The Nature Fix: Why Nature Makes Us Happier, Healthier, and More Creative journalist Florence Williams has spent years digging into this subject. She says research shows that immersion in nature can lower our heart rate, reduce the release of stress hormones in the blood and give our prefrontal cortex — which is taxed by daily distractions like emails, texts notifications, shopping lists and deadlines — a much-needed rest.

When we go out into nature, Williams says, “our brains shift in a way that’s really good for our mood and health.”

The results of even short excursions into nature — like taking a walk in a park or sitting next to a river — range from decreased anxiety to improved creativity. And longer multi-day wilderness trips are believed to produce persisting positive changes in attitudes, moods and behavior.

“We seem to be giving our prefrontal cortex a break, so our thinking brain is quieting down and given a rest,” Williams said. “So that can refresh our creativity and allow for mind-wandering. People’s self-concept seems to change too. It’s just this kind of wonderful gift to have that time and space to think about those things.”

When the attention network is freed up, Williams says, other parts of the brain appear to take over, including those associated with sensory perception, empathy and productive day-dreaming. And even more so with longer excursions. Williams noted the so-called “three-day effect,” a term coined by Utah bookseller/river runner Ken Sanders, who realized that after being on the water for three days on a rafting trip, things really started to change. The group dynamic, sense of time, awareness of surroundings and perception all seem to shift.

Sanders relayed his observation to cognitive neuroscientist David Strayer — a leading researcher in nature’s effects on the brain — who had also personally experienced a difference in qualitative thinking after two or three days of disconnecting in the wild. Strayer tested the theory by giving word games to people before and after they went on long backpacking trips, and the results were significant: subjects performed nearly 50 percent better after spending time in wilderness.

Williams also noted that being around water appears to create more alpha waves and is good for our parasympathetic nervous system. And sleeping outside according to natural light patterns helps us reset our circadian rhythm, aiding sleep. Then there’s the awe factor.

“In wilderness, we experience a lot of awe … just experiencing that sense of awe tends to make us feel more connected to the natural world and to each other,” Williams said.

Williams tries to get out on at least one river trip per year, and says she never gets tired of watching how people transform on the river.

“It’s really amazing to watch the transformation happen where you really see people come out of their shells and open up to their sensory environment, socialize more and engage in laughter and good times. And then watching the sense of beauty sort of knock them over.”

So do your brain a favor, and start planning your next river trip now. Your health depends on it.

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From epic tales of adventure to comprehensive field guides, this essential Grand Canyon reading list dives deep into the legends, history and natural environment of one of the most storied places on the planet. If you’re planning a trip to the Grand Canyon, you’ll want to put a few of these books on your must-read list.

Must-read Grand Canyon Books

The Emerald Mile | By Kevin Fedarko – From one of Outside magazine’s “Literary All-Stars” comes the thrilling true tale of the fastest boat ride ever, down the entire length of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, during the legendary flood of 1983.

The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons | By John Wesley Powell – Originally published in 1875, this is the classic tale of adventure and exploration of the rivers and canyonlands of the Colorado Plateau.

First Through Grand Canyon | By Michael Ghiglieri – For another take on the John Wesley Powell expedition of 1869, Ghiglieri turns to the secret journals and letters of the crew who explored the rivers of the Colorado Plateau alongside Powell. In this evocative read he pieces together a more complete picture of what really happened on that historic first descent of the Grand Canyon.

Down the River | By Edward Abbey – A collection of essays that include author and environmentalist Ed Abbey’s experiences in and around the Colorado River.

Running Dry | By Jonathan Waterman – Weaving history and tall tales, adventures on the river and conservation, Waterman includes snapshots of local farmers, boatmen, park rangers and engineers in this absorbing account of a trip on the Colorado from Lake Powell to the Gulf of California. The book also includes an excellent pullout map of the Colorado Basin.

The Man Who Walked Through Time | By Colin Fletcher – Fletcher’s much-loved account of a remarkable two-month odyssey below the rim of the Grand Canyon, first published in 1967.

The Grand Canyon Reader | Edited by Lance Newman – Both an English professor and river guide, Lance Newman selects well from the accounts of early explorers, popular fiction and contemporary literature by writers as diverse as John McPhee, Ann Zwinger, Edward Abbey and Barry Lopez for this choice anthology. Organized into sections on the rim, the river and people, these stories of the great unknown are just the thing for Grand Canyon visitors.

How the Canyon Became Grand: A Short History | By Stephen J. Pyne – The history of the idea and allure of the Grand Canyon, and its transformation from worthless real estate to marvel of nature.

There’s This River… Grand Canyon Boatman Stories | Edited by Christa Sadler – A collection of humorous tales and misadventures from the best storytellers in the Grand Canyon—the guides. First published in 1994 and expanded in more recent editions.

Canyon | By Michael Ghiglieri – Travel downstream from Lees Ferry to Diamond Creek in the company of an experienced guide and ecologist. Ghiglieri mixes a travel account with high adventure, drama and a good deal of information on the history, geology and ecology of the Colorado.

Cadillac Desert: The American West and Its Disappearing Water | By Marc Reisner – A definitive history of water development in the American desert – and a now-classic chronicle of wrong-headed policies and misadventures controlling the great rivers of the West.

Downcanyon: A Naturalist Explores the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon | Ann Zwinger – A vivid overview of the Grand Canyon and Colorado River, from Mile 0 at Lees Ferry to Mile 278 at Grand Wash Fault. Zwinger interweaves geology, plants, animals and human history in her account.

River Notes: A Natural and Human History of the Colorado | By Wade Davis – A hymn to the Colorado River, thrilling account of Wade’s rafting adventures in the Grand Canyon and vivid report on the state of the American West.

The Hidden Canyon | By John Blaustein – The incredible photographs of Blaustein are paired with Edward Abbey’s iconic prose to give you an intimate sense of the Grand Canyon from the river. It’s the perfect commemorative purchase for any Grand Canyon trip.

Grand Canyon Guides & Maps

Grand Canyon: The Complete Guide | By James Kaiser – Kaiser, a photographer and national park guide book author, has spent months exploring the Grand Canyon. Through stunning photography, insider tips and detailed maps, his thorough guide helps visitors have an unforgettable experience in the park.

Lonely Planet Grand Canyon National Park | By Lonely Planet – This comprehensive guide, with a focus on where to go and what to do, includes an overview of the natural history of the area and maps.

Four Corners Region [Trail of the Ancients] Destination Map | By National Geographic Maps – This double-sided map shows national parks, archaeological sites and attractions in the Four Corners Region of the United States from the Grand Canyon to Chaco, Mesa Verde, Monument Valley, Bryce and Zion.

Grand Canyon East, Map 262 | By National Geographic Trails Illustrated – This detailed relief map covers the Colorado River from Glen Canyon to Phantom Ranch (mile 0 to 142).

Grand Canyon West, Map 263 | By National Geographic Trails Illustrated – This detailed relief map covers the Colorado River from Phantom Village to Lake Mead (mile 110 to 278).

Grand Canyon Field Guides

A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon | By Stephen Whitney – A compact guide to the natural history of the Grand Canyon with 71 handsome color plates, maps and illustrations.

A Naturalist’s Guide to Canyon Country | By David Williams, Illustrated by Gloria Brown – A compact field guide to the wildlife of the high desert of the Colorado Plateau and the nine national parks of the region. Williams includes an overview of the history, geology and ecology of the high desert along with basic information on identifying common plants and animals.

Field Guide to the Grand Canyon: A Folding Pocket Guide to Familiar Plants and Animals | By James Kavanagh – This handy, laminated card features color illustrations of commonly encountered birds, mammals and reptiles of the Grand Canyon and can be easily slipped in your pocket.

Additional Suggestions…

Desert Solitaire | By Edward Abbey – One of the great works on the value of the desert, eloquent and laugh-out-loud funny. Although Abbey writes specifically about his experiences as a ranger at Arches National Park outside Moab, Utah, his message is universal.

The Complete Whitewater Rafter | By Jeff Bennett – A popular, practical guide to whitewater rafting, with information on preparing for your trip, choosing equipment, safety and rescue, the history of rafting, as well as introductions to water currents and rapid classifications.

*This post contains Amazon Affiliate links. Please note that OARS will earn a small commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through.

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5 River Guides Share Their Most Memorable Flip Stories

There are two types of boaters: those who have flipped and those who will. We train hard. We respect the water. But sometimes, we go under.

My first flip happened in 2017, a notable high-water year for a landscape often defined by water shortage and drought. Water was abundant across most of the West, and its power was palpable.

That same season, the intense water reworked one of the most infamous rapids on the Middle Fork of the American River: Tunnel Chute. Because of the high water, the entrance and structure of the rapid changed, and flips became a common occurrence. Natalie Haber, who has guided for OARS for six seasons, flipped there twice. Though all flips can be challenging, recovery in Tunnel Chute is often manageable. “It’s like flipping into a swimming pool with a lot of current,” Haber said. “For this river, it’s not a matter of if you swim, but when.”

Flips are not restrained to high water though. They can happen anytime, anywhere, to anyone. Andrew Goetting guided for OARS for seven seasons before he flipped for the first time in Satan’s Cesspool on the South Fork of the American River. As we all can be sometimes, he was in the wrong place at the right time. While paddlers typically tuck into a hole at right, that day he followed a tongue on the left that pushed into a wall. After the flip, he climbed on the overturned boat, re-flipped it in current and quickly pulled guests in for a slick recovery.

Jasmine Wilhelm, who has guided for OARS Dories in Idaho, recalled being a passenger on a private trip when she flipped on the Selway River at Wolf Creek. After hitting a wave sideways and getting knocked toward a wall, they highsided, but were stuck vertically for a few seconds. They clutched thwarts like koalas clutch trees, but “were deluding [themselves] with the highside at that point.” They took the tube down with them and floated with the upside-down boat through the tail waves.

She has yet to flip a boat while helming the oars, but knows how the river operates in that regard. “I always try to ride the line of conservative and bold, but I know the day will come,” she said.

Paddle boats are typically more likely to flip, mostly because they have less mass. Oar rigs, when fully-loaded, can be behemoths of boats. This means they are less likely to tip, but when they do, can require thoughtful logistics and mechanical advantages to right.

Still, 2017 was a banner year for both high water and oar-rigs flipping. In the Big Drops of Cataract Canyon, Izzy Garcia, who guides for OARS in Idaho and Utah, flipped in the biggest water year there since 1984. In mid-July, the river was still raging at 40,000 CFS. Izzy recalled how the Big Drops frothed in anger and frustration, and guides hugged each other solemnly and with focus during the scout at Poop Rock. After a clean run in Big Drop 1, slackwater ripped the oar out of his hand and his ferry angle misfired. The boat plowed into the Claw Wave. Everything went silent and dark. He swam Big Drop 3 down the middle, avoiding Satan’s Gut to the left and Brahma’s Wave and Frogg’s Hole to the right. His brain was clicking through options rapid-fire, but swimming Class V rapids is serious business. Fortunately, there was a motorized sport boat that picked him and other swimmers up. Out of seven boats, three flipped and two dump trucked, but everyone was safe, no gear was damaged, and they were able to proceed to camp unscathed.

It was flipping in big water that inspired OARS Dories guide Dakota Goodman to become a guide. While rowing on a private Grand Canyon trip when she was 18, she flipped during a run on the right in Lava. It was her first time rowing the Grand, and her first time boating without her family. The balance of her entrance timing and power was off, and she spun sideways on a rooster tail. After attempting a pull, she hit backward and flipped bow over stern. The event was so rapid there was no way to highside, and her passengers were washed out downstream. Goodman, however, was sucked into the depths and touched bottom twice, in what she remembered as, “The most gnarly swim.” After all of the pieces were put back together, she sat on her boat and realized she wanted to go into guiding as a job instead of just private boating.

“I want to work in these places and show these places to people who wouldn’t have the chance because it’s so special and so powerful,” she said. Lava, “I forever have a lot of respect for Mama Lava.”

Being scared and apprehensive about flipping is completely understandable. Water is power, and it’s nothing to be cavalier about. However, as guides, our utmost focus is on safety, and we share this with you on the water by teaching the skill and value of risk management and self-rescue in remote river canyons. We train and prepare to be able to respond to dynamic situations — like an unexpected river dunk!

Photos: Raft flip – Picture This; Tunnel Chute – Natalie Haber; Selway River – Jasmine Wilhelm 

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The first time I spent more than a consecutive week outside was a Grand Canyon river trip with my dad. Seventeen-year-old me was uninterested in washing the silt from my hair after the trip ended. I was so enamored with the Colorado River that I needed to hold tight to every last remnant, lest I forget what it felt like to float through history itself. The stand-in “trip mom” reminded me showering actually needed to occur before I could re-enter society.

I did not really want to re-enter, though. I held to the sandy vestiges of the trip because it had been a surreal sojourn of enduring days filled with ethereal green chasms, seeping waterfalls, red canyon sunsets and no sense of time. I spent the better part of a month experiencing otherworldliness with 15 strangers. Needless to say, it was 15 friends by the take out. It had been perfect.

The Wilderness Effect

I once had a coworker and friend tell me she never wanted to lead a trip for less than 30 days again. “It’s just not long enough to get to know people!” she said. It makes me laugh, but also it is true. Growth and bonding absolutely happens on a week-long trip, don’t get me wrong. The three-day effect is real and powerful.

After three days in nature, the health and social benefits start to manifest. Robert Greenway, the father of ecopsychology who created the term wilderness effect, however, found psychological benefits begin to emerge after 10 days in the outdoors. He found spending between two and four weeks in the wilderness has undeniable positive impacts on the human psyche.

After 10 days, people begin to feel more alive. There’s an element of invigoration, of reflection, and what Greenway calls an “escape from cultural dominance.” The endless to-dos seem to melt away. A mindfulness and presentness grows. Minds start to quiet and clear. Pre-existing pressures and stressors start to evaporate.

In river canyons, the walls are also mirrors; mirrors that reflect values and beliefs. The sheer red walls, the columnar basalt, and the front row seat to the Milky Way often begin to reveal an image of ourselves that looks a lot like our truest, happiest self.

A tenet of ecopsychology is the way extended time in nature makes humans contemplate our relationships to nature. It makes us begin to see our lives differently than before. The wilderness can be a reset button; it is a homecoming. At 17, I left the Grand Canyon with renewed self-efficacy. I felt invigorated by the experience; I felt proud of my accomplishments; strong, brave, reflective.

Those feelings were so pivotal, and personal growth so monumental, I have spent the decade since chasing whitewater and counting down the days until I can pump up a big yellow raft for the next put-in. Once there, after an exhilarating yet meditative day of river wandering, I toss out a sleeping bag on a white sandy beach, and start the worthy, needed, and loved work of checking in with my psyche.

So, if you’ve never spent more than a week on an outdoor adventure: allow yourself the opportunity to do so. Gift yourself the time to check in with the sound of your own breath and the space to feel your heart beat wildly. Emerge from a river canyon new. Rewild yourself back into your true self. Experience the life-shifting power of the wilderness effect.

Photos: Justin Bailie, Whit Richardson

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Views like nowhere else, challenging terrain and remarkable sites you can only see from the trail have earned these top treks around the world legendary status. Not to mention, serious bragging rights if you complete them.

We’re not talking about the Pacific Crest Trail or Camino de Santiago pilgrimages of the world that require an extended leave from your life or career. These bucket list hikes are multi-day expeditions ranging from several days to a few weeks that anyone with good planning, proper training and a hunger for big adventure can tackle.

1) Mount Kilimanjaro | Tanzania

Distance: Varies by route
Time: 5 – 9 days
Best time to go: June to October

You don’t need any technical climbing skills to reach the 19,340-foot summit of Africa’s highest mountain, which is exactly why Mount Kilimanjaro is one of the most popular mountain hikes in the world. Trekking to the top of this free-standing, dormant volcano will take you along one of six different routes, which vary in lengths and difficulties, through five different climate zones. You’ll pass through mossy jungle, volcanic formations and glaciers, before ultimately being rewarded with hundred-mile panoramic views.

2) Tour du Mont Blanc | France, Italy & Switzerland

Distance: 110 miles
Time: 6 – 14 days
Best time to go: July to September

What other trek in the world takes you through three different countries on foot?  The Tour du Mont Blanc encircles Europe’s highest peak as it takes hikers through the famed Alps region of France, Italy and Switzerland. As you trek through lush forests, alpine meadows and glacial valleys, and over mountain passes, you’ll be challenged with extreme elevation changes. The payoffs are big on this classic European adventure and you’ll be rewarded with awe-inspiring scenery every step of the way.

3) Inca Trail | Peru

Distance: 26 miles
Time: 4 – 5 days
Best time to go: May to September

Going the long way always offers unexpected surprises and when it comes to the Inca Trail, an ancient route through the Andes that leads to Machu Picchu, this is certainly the case. On this high-altitude trek you’ll explore more than a dozen spectacular Incan ruins before passing through Machu Picchu’s “back door,” the Sun Gate. It’s a trail that’s filled with breathtaking beauty, mountaintop vista terraces, snowcapped peaks, and mind-boggling ancient history.

4) Routeburn Track | New Zealand  

Distance: 20 miles
Time: 2 – 4 days
Best time to go: November to April

Milford Track may be New Zealand’s most famous trek, but the nearby Routeburn Track should not be overlooked. Linking Mount Aspiring National Park with Fiordland National Park, this stunning one-way trail is big on scenery. You’ll wander through lush valleys carved by glaciers, dense beech forests, past waterfalls and magnificent alpine lakes, and over mountain peaks as the trail winds through the South Island’s Southern Alps.

5) West Coast Trail | British Columbia, Canada

Distance: 47 miles
Time: 5 – 7 days
Best time to go: May to September

Hikers from all over the world make their way to British Columbia’s remote and rugged Vancouver Island to tackle the notorious and spectacular West Coast Trail. With fluctuating tide levels, endless ladders, river crossings and frequent rain showers this trek through Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is hardly a walk in the park. Still, for hikers who are up for the challenge, it’s a unique opportunity to explore remote beaches and coves, wander through an ancient rain forest, and even whale watch along a spectacular stretch of the Pacific.

6) Torres del Paine W Trek | Chile

Distance: 37+ miles
Time: 3 – 5+ days
Best time to go: October to March

In Chilean Patagonia, a surreal place of beauty chock full of impressive sights and world-class treks, it’s hard to name favorites. Still, gorgeously transparent lakes, vibrant emerald forest, raging rivers, calving glaciers and granite spires will show you why Torres del Paine’s challenging W trek is the quintessential Patagonia hike. For a longer excursion, you can tackle the “The Circuit,” which is a nine day loop around the entire park and includes the “W” route.

7) GR20 | Corsica

Distance: 112 miles
Time: 15 days
Best time to go: June to mid-October

The famed GR20 trail, which traverses the jagged ridge of mountains on the Mediterranean Island of Corsica, is arguably one of Europe’s toughest mountain treks. On the Grand Randonnée, or Great Walk as it’s translated from French, you’ll tackle nearly 35,000 vertical feet of elevation as you hike by towering spires, crystalline lakes and snowcapped peaks, sometimes catching a glimpse of the dramatic coastline. It’s a relentlessly rugged but magnificent trek.

8) Overland Track | Australia

Distance: 40 miles
Time: 5 – 6 days
Best time to go: November to April

Situated in one of the Southern Hemisphere’s great wilderness regions—Tasmania Wilderness World Heritage Area—the Overland Track is Australia’s most renowned trek. On this remote hike you’ll wind through the heart of Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park, passing through a variety of scenery from vast rainforests and glacier-carved valleys to moorlands and majestic mountain peaks. Many people also opt to summit Mt. Osso, Tasmania’s tallest peak, which is a common side trip from the trail and where even more magnificent views await.

9) Grand Canyon Rim to Rim | Arizona

Distance: 24 miles (one-way)
Time: 1 – 3 days
Best time to go: May to June, September to October

Prepare for sensory overload on this challenging hike into the heart of Grand Canyon, one of the world’s premiere national parks. From the North Kaibab trail on the North Rim, you’ll descend some 6,000 feet through two billion years of Earth’s history and mesmerizing scenery before connecting with the Bright Angel Trail and climbing 4,500 feet back out again to the South Rim. While the grueling rim-to-rim trek can be done in one day (and in various iterations via different trails), don’t miss the chance to spend a night at world-famous Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon.

10) The Annapurna Circuit | Nepal

Distance: 100 – 145 miles depending where you end
Time: 12 – 21 days
Best time to go: October, November, April and May

The Annapurna Circuit, an awe-inspiring trek through the heart of the Nepalese Himalaya, is often referred to as “the best long distance trek in the world.” And while the area’s natural beauty is no doubt spectacular—dramatic gorges, gushing waterfalls, and majestic peaks of the Annapurna range—it’s the trek’s cultural immersion that makes it so special. Following an ancient trade route that still functions as one today, the trail takes you through local villages where you can’t help but be immersed in the sights, sounds and hospitality of the Nepalese culture. It’s a trek where you’ll gladly trade solitude for the opportunity to soak up the sights and traditions of this wondrous region.

Photos: Kilimanjaro – Sergey Pesterev/Unsplash; Tour du Mont Blanc – Backroads; Inca Trail – James Kaiser; Routeburn Track – Megan Simpson/Flying Kiwi Tours on Flickr; West Coast Trail – ilya_ktsn/Flickr; W Trek – Cascada Expediciones; GR20 – akunamatata/Flickr; Overland Track – Tatters/Flickr; Grand Canyon – James Kaiser; Annapurna Circuit – Andrew Hyde/Flickr

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In 2019 the National Park Service will celebrate the Centennial of Grand Canyon National Park. For the majority of people, this 100th Anniversary may not mean much. But for those of us who have a deep love and affection for Grand Canyon, this moment matters.

As a Navajo woman working on the Colorado Plateau for almost 15 years, my work has been fueled by love and passion for my land and people. My primary focus has been on partnering with tribal communities and governments to initiate large-scale land protection initiatives, as well as driving culturally-compatible economic initiatives in the region. For me, Grand Canyon is a source of strength, as it holds the stories of our people and will carry these stories into the future.

Hearing about each tribe’s unique connection to the land and Grand Canyon is one of my favorite aspects of the work I do. For example, traditional Hopi people believe they emerged into the world from Sipapu, located deep in Grand Canyon. They still make a pilgrimage to its location to offer prayers and place prayer feathers. Traditional Southern Paiute people believe they will return to Grand Canyon after they pass, just as some people believe they will go to heaven. The Zuni people believe they emerged from the womb of Mother Earth through Ribbon Falls. For every tribe, there is a rich and elaborate history that has bonded them to Grand Canyon since ancient times.

Before Grand Canyon was bestowed to Americans as public land and designated as a national park, its original stewards were the regional tribes. These tribes include the Havasupai, Hopi, Hualapai, Diné, Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians, Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah (representing the Shivwits Paiute), Las Vegas Paiute, Moapa Band of Paiute Indians, San Juan Southern Paiute, Yavapai-Apache (representing the White Mountain, San Carlos, Yavapai and Tonto nations), and the Pueblo of Zuni. These tribes lived on and roamed the land, and when outsiders like John Wesley Powell explored and navigated the area, they were relied on for help and guidance. Today, people still learn about the region and canyon from native tribes. That’s why they will continue to be critical to the stewardship and protection of Grand Canyon.

Right now, key tribal individuals and community members are working closely with the National Park Service to create a joint vision for the Park’s next 100 years, which will largely be focused on stewardship, economics, and storytelling.

Tribes’ traditional values are steeped in stewardship, and because of this, many have been entangled in decades-long legal battles and grassroots campaigns to prevent uranium mining, contamination, exploitation, water shortages, overgrazing, and resource extraction both in and around the canyon.

Tribes and tribal leaders are often spearheading these efforts against powerful interest groups and people with deep pockets. Looking ahead, it will be important for the Park Service to develop intergovernmental agreements that enable them to work alongside tribes to better manage and fight against key threats.

In the future, we must also ensure that tribal people are able to participate in the robust economy created by the canyon.

In December 2016, Grand Canyon National Park hit six million visitors for the first time. Additionally, a 2017 Park Service report showed that people spend $667 million in communities near the Park. Yet, because it’s been virtually impossible for tribes and tribal people to partner with the Park Service, they have largely been unable to directly benefit from Park traffic.

Moving forward, it will be important for the Park Service to adopt strong policies of equity and inclusion that will allow for a more diverse group of people to participate in the local economy. For example, in the coming years, I’d love to see a guiding company, owned and operated by tribal people, that leads expeditions into the canyon. I’d love to see restaurants and tour companies owned by tribal people that feed the bus loads of people who come to experience Grand Canyon each year. I’d love to see tribal people taking lead positions within the National Park Service. But first, the opportunity and space must be created by the agency to allow for this. As tribal people, we want to remain in our homelands, and we can only do this if we can actively participate in the economic benefits of the Park.

Lastly, we need to tell a different story about Grand Canyon National Park. It is only through sharing stories that we build understanding and learn from each other. The forced removal of tribes from Grand Canyon is a story that must continue to be shared, and it’s a story that remains largely untold by the Park Service. This is the starting point for creating a strong partnership and shared economic vision for the next 100 years of the Park.

I feel inspired when I think about the future of Grand Canyon National Park. Over the years, I’ve been lucky to hear impassioned stories from river runners, tribal elders, and Park Service staff about the canyon and the land. Sometimes these stories are funny, sometimes sad, and other times upsetting. But the common thread between these stories is that they are fueled by a deep love for Grand Canyon. It’s this love for the canyon that’s going to allow this national treasure to thrive. It’s the love for the canyon that will guide us in the years to come.

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The author of the new guidebook, Paddling the John Wesley Powell Route, shares why he wanted to retrace one of the greatest expeditions of all time and what makes some of the canyons he explored so special…

When he was young, Mike Bezemek wanted to be a backpacking or mountaineering guide. So later, when the opportunity presented itself, he signed up for a Grand Canyon backpacking trip with the Outdoor Adventures Program at UC Davis.  It’s that trip, surprisingly, where Bezemek’s love affair with paddling began.

“On that trip, we hiked down to Hance Rapid and camped,” he recalled. “We did a layover day there, and got to watch some Grand Canyon river trips come through. They were just hooting and hollering and having the best time of their life.”

It was that moment when he remembers thinking, “That’s what I want to do.”

Bezemek went to raft guide school the following spring and became a guide on California’s South Fork of the American River with aspirations of taking his guiding career to Grand Canyon. But that dream was quickly crushed when a back injury after his first season prevented him from going all in.

“I was able to get back to being a raft guide, but I wasn’t able to get back to rowing for a long time,” he said. “I couldn’t really haul a lot of gear, so I stopped guiding overnight trips and just became a paddle captain.”

Eventually, about five years after his injury, Bezemek transitioned away from being a guide and began to focus more on recreational kayaking and writing. But the opportunity to get back to Grand Canyon and paddle the Colorado River eluded him for nearly 15 years.

During this time, Bezemek relocated to the Midwest and began diving into his writing career. Today, he’s a contributing editor for Canoe & Kayak and the author of four books, including his latest title, Paddling the John Wesley Powell Route.

Read on to find out more about the book, what inspired Bezemek to take on a full retrace of the historic John Wesley Powell expedition and what makes these hidden canyons in the West so incredible.

Q: What inspired you to become a “Powell route pilgrim” as you call yourself in the book?

A: I had this real intense desire to get back to Grand Canyon, to run the river. After I realized that it probably wasn’t going to work for me to be a commercial guide, I still wanted to get back there.

I put in for the lottery a couple of times, and so did my friends, but we always tried for peak season slots, like June. We were all teachers so eventually on one of our kayaking trips I said, “Hey, what if we go in the winter?”

So that’s what we did. We planned it all out, looked at our schedules, and then I submitted the application, and got the trip. I proposed that we do the trip as a “fresh eyes descent,” which meant that none of us on the trip had been down the canyon. Some people call them a “PFD,” or personal first descent, but this would be a PFD with fresh eyes.

We all got really excited about this idea and I said something early on like, “It will be like John Wesley Powell going down there, seeing it for the first time.”

So here I am saying all this big, lofty stuff about our fresh eyes descent, and how it’s going to be like John Wesley Powell, but I don’t know enough about the expedition, so I started to read books. Each book I read, I’m getting more and more excited about the whole thing. I was like, “Man, this story is amazing. It’s way better than what’s portrayed in Powell’s book.”

I decided I don’t want to just go down Grand Canyon, I want to do the whole route.

Q: You weave an easy-to-digest narration of the historic 1869 John Wesley Powell expedition into the book. For those who don’t know the story, what made it such a legendary adventure?

A: The expedition is definitely one of the greatest American adventures. The whole story is  incredibly dramatic. There’s this blank spot on the map, and Powell wants to fill it in. But the team wasn’t  river runners. They were damaged civil war veterans and mountain men who basically showed up on the recently-built railroad, and they’re figuring it out as they go. It’s got an almost slapstick quality to it, this kind of haphazard adventure. What happens is nothing like what they expected, which is like a lot of river trips in a way.

One of the reasons I researched and wrote the multi-part retelling was to figure out what exactly happened. I had to read so many darn books because not all of the books are accurate, which is very interesting. Powell in his own account is really convoluted—he combined his first and second expeditions—and he gets a ton of stuff wrong.

Q: Do you think the John Wesley Powell route still offers one of the greatest wilderness river adventures in the U.S.?

A: It’s this long, continuous stretch of one canyon after another. I’ve never really seen anything quite like that. It passes through parts of the U.S. that are still considered to be some of the most remote in the lower 48.

Within the Powell route, there are probably 10 different hidden canyons. From Red Canyon, below Flaming Gorge—that one is well-known to fishermen but lesser known to river runners—to the backhaul section in Glen Canyon above Lee’s Ferry. They’re hidden from common knowledge, and sharing these canyons with readers was a big motivation for writing a book on the whole route.

Another thing about this adventure is that except for some reservoirs, a lot of the route remains relatively similar to what the expedition experienced – from the scenery to the physical challenges of going down the river. You can follow along with that 1869 adventure.

Q: What’s one of the “hidden canyons” along the route that stands out to you?

A:  I think of inner-Desolation as a hidden canyon. It’s just so awesome. And there’s a story there, which is hard to go into quick, but basically it was owned by a few ranching families which helped preserve it as it was. So inner-Deso is like this hidden river museum. A lot of people will spend three to four days in this inner 30 miles just because it’s that cool.

Q: What stretch of river would you recommend to somebody who’s looking to do a shorter multi-day trip, but wants to experience the full magic of these canyons?

A:  For whitewater, I think the Lodore trip is probably the best. It has Grand Canyon-like qualities that would make it a really good proving ground for someone who’s thinking, “Maybe I want to go tackle longer whitewater trips like a week in Desolation or Grand Canyon, which takes anywhere from one to three weeks.”

Q: Paddling the John Wesley Powell route isn’t your typical guidebook. What makes it different?

A: What ties this collection of canyons together is a story. So it’s a narrated guide that tells the story of 1869, and gives all the information that you need to go experience the route for yourself.

Ready to become a Powell route pilgrim? Check out an excerpt of Paddling the John Wesley Powell Route or buy a copy here. 

*PLEASE NOTE THAT SOME OF THE LINKS ABOVE ARE AFFILIATE LINKS, AND OARS WILL EARN A SMALL COMMISSION IF YOU DECIDE TO MAKE A PURCHASE AFTER CLICKING THROUGH THE LINK.

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When I was 19, I wanted to become an outdoor guide, so I joined a guided college backpacking trip to Grand Canyon. We spent a week navigating precarious trails through brilliant layers of sandstones and shales, scrambling atop mesas and staring across vast distances that seemed only hundreds of feet away instead of miles.

Early in the trip, after a steep descent to the Colorado River, we spent a layover day camped beside Hance Rapid. Standing on shore next to a half-mile of churning Class IV whitewater, I was captivated by an approaching river group. Rafts plowed through waves, with rowers grimacing and passengers hollering and waving. A few kayakers zipped downstream like colorful fish on their way to a rave.

I thought, man, I want to do that. As our week-long backpacking trip came to an end, and with new aspirations of becoming a river guide, I figured I’d be back for a river trip through Grand Canyon in a year or two.

Of course, things didn’t work out that way. A back injury quickly dashed my hopes for a long-term guiding career and timely return to those hidden-from-sight river sections of Grand Canyon. And with each passing year, the memory of that river group, turning the corner below Hance, seemed more distant and out of reach. It would be 15 years before my chance came to run Grand Canyon.

Before that trip, I made an offhand comment to my friends and fellow trip mates—a great group of paddlers who I met in the Ozarks. I didn’t realize this comment would change the next five years of my life—and reveal more hidden canyons than I had previously known existed.

Since no one on our trip had ever run this stretch of river before, I basically suggested we run the canyon as a fresh-eyes descent. This would give our trip a real exploratory feel, sort of like how John Wesley Powell and his crew may have felt during their 1869 expedition. But then it hit me. Like Powell, I’d said. Here was a historic figure I considered a hero of mine. We California raft guides used to talk about Powell with such reverence reserved for the founding fathers or whoever invented cheap beer.

But back then, I knew very little beyond the basics. Powell’s team was first to boat through Grand Canyon, and they rowed backwards—two facts reported on a postage stamp! So, I began to read. Book after book. Journals, histories, opinions, trip reports. I was swept up in the story of one of the greatest adventures in American history. I quickly decided a single Grand Canyon trip was not enough. I wanted to explore the entire 1,000-mile Powell route down the Green and Colorado Rivers. A route with dozens of scenic canyons, some well-known, some forgotten, and many hidden from mind among all but die-hard regional river runners.

So, that’s what I did, exploring the route in segments over many years. I’ve rafted, kayaked, paddleboarded, and packrafted well over 1,000 miles, returning again and again to many favorite sections. I’ve also explored extensively on foot, following many remarkable side hikes and tributary canyons to ancestral ruins, historic sites, unexpected waterfalls, and stunning vistas. What I’ve learned is that the John Wesley Powell route includes some of the most remarkable river canyons in the United States—all of which share the story of that first expedition.

Not far from Green River, Wyoming, Flaming Gorge Country straddles the northern Utah border. Here begins the first half-dozen canyons (and whitewater rapids) the Powell expedition encountered in spring of 1869. Today, the first few canyons are flooded by a reservoir, which allows for plenty of lake opportunities. Below Flaming Gorge Dam, there’s nearly 50 miles of river to explore. These miles can be broken into day trips or done as overnights, including a pair of Class II whitewater sections and some flatwater sections in Browns Park.

Downstream, in Dinosaur National Monument, the lofty Gates of Lodore guard the entrance to some of the Powell route’s most dramatic canyons. In June of 1869, the Powell expedition encountered the hardest series of rapids yet. After a wooden rowboat missed a landing, it was wrecked in what today is called Disaster Falls. All told, it took the expedition nearly two weeks of back-breaking portages and challenging rowing to descend what today is a fun and laid-back stretch of Class III whitewater rafting through spectacular scenery, including iconic landscapes like Echo Park and Split Mountain Canyon.

A hundred miles downstream, the 83 miles through Desolation and Gray Canyons may not sound like much, but along the way expect ruins, pictographs, rapids, and more. The trip begins with 20 miles through a barren desert that’s beautiful in its simplicity but seems true to name. And the final 20 miles through Gray Canyon offer a stark gorge with sporty rapids. But the middle 35 miles of Deso include a surprising canyon cut into the Tavaputs Plateau, its crumbly cliffs like red-brick pyramids with a green mortar of juniper and fir.

Below the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers is foreboding Cataract Canyon, which rumbles with Class III-IV rapids—even harder at high water. With rations dwindling, these rapids exhausted the Powell expedition, which was constantly losing oars and then scrambling to cut more from riverside driftwood. Deep in the heart of Canyonlands, today it’s one of the most remote sections of whitewater in the U.S. So remote, to reach the rapids requires a several-day float through the meandering bends of the otherworldly Canyonlands National Park.

Below Lake Powell, the Colorado River passes Lees Ferry. This is the start of the classic trip through the heart of Grand Canyon. In August 1869, Powell and his crew camped not far from Hance Rapid at the confluence with the Little Colorado River. Today, this is a popular side hike where rafters often swim through turquoise waters when the creek is low. Over the past 80 days, the expedition had descended 700 river miles. They were down to nine men—the tenth had left after the disaster in Lodore. But what remaining challenges lay downstream, in what today we call first Granite Gorge, was a mystery.

Powell famously described this feeling in his written account: “We are now ready to start on our way down the great unknown. We are three quarters of a mile into the depths of the earth, and the great river shrinks into insignificance as it dashes its angry waves against the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above… We have an unknown distance yet to run, an unknown river to explore.”

It would take three more weeks for the Powell expedition to descend through Grand Canyon. When they emerged from the Grand Wash Cliffs, they were ragged, hungry, and down to six men in two wooden boats. And what happened along the way quickly became the stuff of legend.

Today, the story of that historic expedition is retold at campfires. The rapids those first expedition members portaged are run regularly with modern equipment and techniques. And each first-time river runner gets a chance to explore their own personal great unknown. In this way, the spirit of 1869 is alive and well in the hidden canyons of the John Wesley Powell route.

Mike Bezemek is the author of the book, Paddling the John Wesley Powell Route.

Photos: Grand Canyon scout – Mike Bezemek, Stand up paddleboarding in Desolation Canyon – Mike Bezemek; Gates of Lodore rafting – Josh Miller; Rafting through Canyonlands National Park – James Kaiser; Grand Canyon dory trip – Justin Bailie 

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So you’re interested in a Grand Canyon river trip. That’s great. You’ve got two main options. The first, and only option if you don’t have the necessary river skills needed to lead your own trip, is to go with a guided outfitter. The second, and what we’ll talk about here, is to apply for a private permit for a noncommercial trip. That’s much easier said than done, but it is possible. In the old days the waiting list got up to 25 years long. You’d hear horror stories of people dying of old age before their names were called. Now, the National Park Service has set up a weighted lottery system, which is just a fancy way of saying newbies always have the best chance of winning a Grand Canyon river permit. Before applying, you’ll want to read up on the process, fees and eligibility requirements.

Ready to throw your name in the hat?  Here are the best ways to increase your odds of winning a Grand Canyon river permit and running your own trip on the most famed stretch of the Colorado River.

Apply to the Lottery

Your first step is to create a personal profile for the Grand Canyon Noncommercial Weighted Lottery. The main lottery for 2020 opens February 1st. It closes February 20th and you’ll hear the verdict by the end of February. The exact dates may change so it’s best to sign up for email alerts when creating your profile. Then start contemplating your crew. They strongly encourage you to have a Potential Alternative Trip Leader (PATL) when applying. It also helps to convince a few friends to create a profile so you can all apply and increase your chances of winning. Anyone who is planning to row needs experience on big water wilderness trips like the Salmon, Yampa, Rogue, or Green River among others. And each person is only allowed one trip on the river per year. So consider wisely when choosing your crew.

Select Off Season Dates

You get to select up to four potential dates for your trip. Not all starting dates are created equal. You are competing with thousands of others for the best whitewater trip in the world and most of them want to go in the summer. A little flexibility here goes a long way. Don’t mind the cold? Great. Choose a winter date to increase your chances of winning. But again, don’t take winter lightly. Rowing the biggest rapids of your life in freezing temps is no joke. Nor are the long nights and scant sunlight at the bottom of the canyon. Choosing a few trip dates in spring or fall can be wonderful, and are slightly less competitive than the summer.

Throw a Permit Party

When you get the email alert from the National Park Service that the lottery is open, invite your crew over for a potluck. You can figure out the dates when everyone is available, and ensure that everyone fills out an application. It gets things off to a great start and helps your crew begin to imagine the trip and feel invested in making it happen. There are small permits for a group of eight and large permits for up to 16. It’s really helpful if you have a few experienced oarsmen so you can have numerous PATLs and your whole group isn’t relying on one person. This is also a great time to chat about logistics. The amount of gear you need to pull this off is one of the most difficult parts of a private trip.

Snag a Cancellation

Odds are you will not win the main lottery. Don’t worry, there are follow-up lotteries for the cancelled dates throughout the year. Think of these as quick-strike lotteries to fill vacancies. They’ll send out an email with a handful of available dates. Some might be a few months out, others will start next week. You’ll need to rally your crew and apply within three days. If you win, you’ll need to put down $200 for a small group permit and $400 for a large group to reserve the date. Only do this if you are sure you can go on those dates. If you win a permit and back out, your chances to win in another launch that year will go down.

Consider an Outfitter

If it’s your first time, going on a guided trip has a ton of benefits. You won’t have to round up the gear, for one, but you’ll also get to relax while you focus on the river. You’ll learn from the professional guides, get to know the best campsites, how to run the most daunting rapids, and let loose and have fun. It also guarantees you’ll get on the river. It’s not giving up on your private trip dreams to go with an outfitter. It’s preparing for your trip. If you’ve done it before, it takes away that twinge of dread every private boater feels when pushing off into an unknown canyon.

Be a Friend

Friendship is a powerful thing, and if you’re friends with lucky, devoted rafters you can be invited on a Grand Canyon trip every year without dealing with permits. So work on your Dutch oven cooking, your storytelling, and campfire guitar and soon you’ll become the ideal invite on a canyon expedition. Remember though, applying for a Grand Canyon river permit is a process. It takes time. Build your network of river friends, learn the process, and keep at it. Sooner or later you’ll get out there, and when you dip that first oar, it’ll all be worth it.

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